WLBA-Button-3

So the big news is, we finally get to sew something this week!

We’re starting with the back pocket, and regardless of which option you choose to make, the pocket is the same.  Well, unless you don’t want a pocket, in which case just have a back outer fabric panel to match the front O1 panel instead of pieces O3-O4 and ML2 – ML4.

Tips For The Back Pocket

1. Although I have a 16″ zip here (that is to say, from the metal end stop until the end of the teeth is 16″, bitter experience has told me you don’t ever want to run the risk of sewing over that metal end stop by catching it in the seam allowance!  To combat this, I do the following:

 

  • Make sure the metal end stop is just over 1/2″ in from the outer edge of the fabric:

 

 

  • I make a mark to remind me where the zip needs to line up with the edge for when I come to pin it in place

 

 

  • I then make a mark at the other end, 1/2″ in from the edge to show where I need to move the zipper back to

 

 

  • Move the zipper back behind the line, and secure the ends as in the pattern
2. For the next tip, remember how the pattern has a 1/2″ seam allowance?  Well, zipper tape tends to be less than 1/2″ from the edge of the teeth to the edge of the tape, so you will need to compensate for this when attaching it to the pocket pieces.  Here’s how I do it:
  • Measure from the side of the teeth to the edge of the tape

 

 

  • Place the zip so that the teeth are a full 1/2″ down from the top edge of the fabric.  Note that the mark for the edge of the zip from tip 1 is transferred to the back for this step too

 

3. Are you struggling to envisage how to add the zip for the top section for step 7?  I usually have a brief head scratching moment at this point, as the top section is so much shorter than the bottom, however you need to put the outer pieces so that they are right sides together when the free zipper edge is aligned with the bottom of the top section

  • Pinned side:

 

 

  • Flip side:

 

 

  • Then when you add the lining piece in step 9, the lining pieces will be right sides together

 

 

4. It’s quite hard to see how you pin the pocket to the back as they’re the same size, so I didn’t take a photo for the pattern, but just in case you couldn’t envisage it, here’s what happens:

  • Pinned in place

 

 

  • And when basted in place, with the pocket open (excusing my hand, I was trying to hold the pocket open while not having any freaky double jointedness going on)

 

I hope this all made sense, but if you have any questions, please let me know, and I’ll do my best to address them at the start of the next post.

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